Whenever curating a list of London’s best eateries, one might expect renowned award-winning establishments. But, tucked prominently among these gastronomic giants is a modest salonu situated in a outlying area of north London.
This small Turkish restaurant, concentrating in the culinary delights of Mersin, a city on Turkey’s south coast, has been named the fourth best restaurant in the capital by a influential culinary publication. The honour has made the family completely shocked.
“I am utterly astonished,” remarks the family member, pointing to his family’s dedication that resulted in their modest restaurant earning such a lofty spot on a prestigious 99-strong list.
This small shop, which started as a basic cafe before its transformation into a popular destination, has kept much of its earlier character. It seats just over 20 people and, aside from the dazzling live cooking show, the layout remains mostly unchanged. “It’s a compact and cozy space,” says the owner.
Ultimately, it is focused on the fare, and this eatery more than excels. The restaurant’s eponymous dish, tantuni, is a straightforward pleasure. The meat—whether lamb or chicken—is prepared via steaming to preserve a succulent consistency.
It is then thrown into a massive pan with flavours and oil, which are mixed in slowly. Once the flavourful mixture heats through, freshly made lavaş—a pliable bread—is slapped on top to take in all the juices. Finely sliced onions and a handful of parsley go inside before the flavourful meat is wrapped neatly inside.
It is typically consumed with a drizzle of lemon or some pickles. The final product is a strong burst of flavour, with subtle hints of sumac, sharp onions and spicy, paprika-laced oil bringing it all in harmony.
Another option is yoğurtlu tantuni, where the savoury lavaş is cut up and finished with yogurt, tomato sauce and aromatic brown butter. A respected food critic described this dish “one of London’s few perfect, no-notes dishes”.
When it comes to a sweet finish, the eatery’s künefe proves a treat. It is doused in a more modest amount of syrup than usual, resulting in it a deeper, toastier and not overly sweet taste.
Notably, this modest spot has ranked above several renowned three-Michelin-starred establishments. It finds itself close to the peak of the list, following other notable dining destinations.
Whereas two people could easily leave this place full for under £25, equivalent experiences at top-tier establishments can run into many times that figure.
It is also part of several Turkish restaurants featured and is found well beyond the city’s central zones. “It’s not focused on luxury. London is an pricey city. It is assumption that in an high-cost place you’re going to have the top service and finest food but I do not agree with that,” explains the owner.
“In my view what is paramount is warmth, friendliness and somewhere you can be yourself and be calm.”
This philosophy is supported by the list’s curator, who suggested that if he were in a position of authority, he would “insist to make every chef in London visit this restaurant as a masterclass, to show them the traps of overthinking, and to show what is attainable if you do just one – or three – things to their very best”.
In contrast to many chefs managing kitchens in the list’s top ten, the driving force behind the food did not train at Michelin-starred establishments. “I feel truly proud of our shop and our mum,” concludes her son.
Many restaurants require years to find their footing, but this one first started seven years ago. Its popularity is due to tireless, seven-day weeks of work.
“My mum would be extremely tired. She would go shopping in the morning and prepare the food in the afternoon. Each item is prepared manually; she would do all of this. She is a solo parent and she balanced a social life but her friends would support her to encourage her. She was raising children and a house to look after as well. All of these responsibilities shaped her into what she is now: a remarkable person,” he shares.
The restaurant’s accolade is likely to echo beyond its own premises. “In my opinion numerous people would be pleased, as I am, because the Turkish community is a huge part of London,” concludes the owner, pointing out the wider significance of this culinary honour.
Elena Hartwell is a multidisciplinary artist and educator passionate about fostering creative communities in London.